Running through the Infrastructure of Happiness

Thursday, July 11. My alarm jolted me out of a deep sleep at 5:30 am; my brain scrambled to recall the unfamiliar surroundings as I stumbled to the hotel window and pulled back the curtain. “Toto, I’ve got a feeling we’re not in Lapland, anymore,” I muttered, as my eyes adjusted onto the web of four-lane highways below that seemed to entrap the hotel. Quite a different scene from the miles of rolling fells and serene lakes that dotted the horizon in Lapland.

We were back in the Capital region, in Vantaa, preparing to head out on the last leg of our journey across Finland. But before breakfast porridge and musta kahvi, I would drag my decidedly groggy, confused, and travel-fatigued body out of bed for a morning run. This is how I began most mornings in Finland, determined to see as much of the country as possible through my own two feet. Determined to run through the infrastructure of happiness.

But as I looked down upon the web of highways, my heart admittedly sank. 

Running in Lapland had been so motivating, regardless of how tired I felt. I knew I’d be treated to soft rays of sun that began to warm the cool morning air; to reindeer grazing amidst wildflowers on the fellside, fully aware of, yet indifferent to, my presence; to beautiful nordic trails that cut through verdant forest and suomaa—swampland. 

In North Karelia, in the east, I experienced the joy of running along Joensuu’s River Pielinen.

Here, I knew the blue and green surrounds I’d encounter would soothe my overactive mind as it processed all of our new experiences and learning opportunities. I’d stumble across cute homes and private saunas tucked in the forest; bobbing rowboats; morning swimmers; a standing kaleidoscope delightfully placed along the riverwalk, ready to recombine the riverscape ahead into dazzling patterns.

Even in the heart of Helsinki, I knew that within minutes, I could find myself in Kaivopuisto, surrounded by white cheeks, flower beds, sprawling trees, and the affective confluence of nature and public art, such Mark Niskanen and Jani-Matti Salo’s entrancing sound installation, A Scene II. 

There was always a sense that not far from the hubbub of city life, there was a road that would quietly lead you to the serenity of woods and water, such as Seurasaarentie, off bustling Paciuksenkatu.

Not here, I thought. Yet I begrudgingly laced up, found a patch of green on Google Maps, and oriented myself in that direction, with minimal optimism or enthusiasm. 

How could I have doubted you, Finland? 

To my surprise, within minutes, I had easily navigated crossing the web and was on my way through a community with brightly colored pops of red, yellow, and green brick homes, which opened onto an expansive, pastoral field crossed by manicured trails bathed in morning glow. 

From here, I meandered through a forest loop, surrounded by foliage so dense it was shocking to consider that there could be any highways nearby. I crossed a picturesque pedestrian bridge over the River Vantaa, and cheerfully shouted Huomenta! to some grazing horses who were even more indifferent than the reindeer. Thanks to city signage, I realized I had entered Helsinki’s Keskuspuisto - Central Park. Ten kilometers of forests, landscaped fields, and meadows.

Running transported me to yet again experience one of the country’s key strengths in building an infrastructure of happiness: the accessibility of nature. 

Upon returning back to our hotel in the middle of the highway web, my mood and alertness were much improved. I felt energized, awakened, happy. Running transported me to yet again experience one of the country’s key strengths in building an infrastructure of happiness: the accessibility of nature. Even from a web of highways, I was able to connect with blue and green spaces that can lead to improvements in our cognitive functioning, mood, mental health, and emotional well-being.

Now back in the U.S., motivated by my morning runs and a variety of nature experiences our cohort had in Finland, I’m about to embark on a “happiness expedition” with my eighth grade students. We’ll take inspiration from Finland to explore connections between nature, play, sustainability, and happiness.

We’ll hike and practice nature school activities shared by educator Kirsi Peräjärvi—activities focused on slowing down, tuning in our senses, and observing in order to develop a connection to place. 

We’ll explore urban nature at Nature Play in City Park, Denver, learning first hand how nature offers possibilities for play, discovery, and connecting with others. We’ll work to steward our environment and explore ways to bring nature and green spaces into our school’s new campus and classrooms, reflecting, all the while, on our happiness and well-being.

If you find yourself in Finland in the future, you will undoubtedly have myriad experiences to explore connections between nature and happiness, from churchboat rowing and swimming in the Baltic Sea to hiking in the breathtaking Koli National Park and the fells of Lapland. But save some space in your luggage for your running shoes. You don’t want to miss out on the inspiration and surprises that await you while running through Finland’s infrastructure of happiness.